Sunday, August 30, 2009: We woke up early as usual and watched the sunrise over Galilee – pretty cool just to write those words. We were happy to leave the hotel, which was not a fun place, although the setting near the water was very nice. We drove to Tabgha. This is a place of springs that flow into Galilee. There is a rock here where a church was built. The rock along the shores of the lake is supposed to be near the place where Jesus appeared after his resurrection and fed the disciples fish and walked with Peter and John on the beach, asking Peter about his love for Him. See the story in John 21. Through oral tradition of people in Galilee, in the mid 300s, this was identified as the site of that event.
We assembled on the rocky beach there around 8:30 a.m. for a worship service and teaching by Mark Driscoll. I was hoping that he would teach from John 21. Instead, because he is about to start a series in Luke, he taught from Luke 8:22-25, where Jesus was sleeping on the boat, the disciples believed they were going to drown, and Jesus woke up and calmed the storm. We saw a similar type of boat the day before, with a platform on one end where Jesus could have been sleeping. Mark pointed out how exhausted all of us are walking around in 100 degree heat with high humidity. Yet, Jesus walked hundreds of miles without air conditioning or a comfortable place to lay his head. The Bible says that often he and the disciples didn’t even have time to eat. So, Jesus fell asleep on the boat, demonstrating his complete humanity. He then stilled the storm in a demonstration of his absolute diety. The wind and the storm had to obey him.
By the way, we observed how windy and choppy the lake would become in the late afternoon. It would take strong men to row several miles across the lake in those conditions.
We next drove to Beit Shean. This is one of the oldest archeological sites in Israel. Bet Shean was built before the patriarchs and was controlled by the Egyptians at some point in time. This was a huge city. The ruins are more extensive than what has been discovered so far at Corinth, which was a city of 700,000 to 800,000 at its peak. The main biblical reference to Beit Shean is that a headless Saul and his sons were hung on the walls of the city after their deaths on Mt. Gilboa. The city was controlled by the Philistines at the time. Beit Shean later came under the control of the Greeks and then the Romans. Eventually, the city became a thriving city of the early church.
This was a wealthy city, with a huge marble amphitheatre (still mostly intact), a stadium, a hippodrome, a large bathhouse complex with multiple pools, extensive public toilets – perhaps 50 people could sit side by side and use the toilets at the same time (there was no privacy). A soft leaf was provided to wipe oneself. The city had many large marble colonnades with mosaic tile on public walkways, and large tile covered buildings and many other signs of wealth and prosperity.
It was incredibly hot in the ruins, but when the city was flourishing there were apparently a number of springs that provided plenty of water for pools, fountains and all of the water needs of the inhabitants.
Picture Pompei or another wealthy city that came to a screeching halt. There was an earthquake at Beit Shean in 749 A.D. Massive marble columns tumbled down, embedding themselves in the pavement and other places. The city was then abandoned with everything left in place. Thus, the city has a spooky feeling of having been lived in by people who were thriving when everything suddenly stopped on one day. People died or left and the city was never re-inhabited. I have seen many ruins in many countries, but this was one of the most extensive and impressive set of ruins I have seen, because it was easy to visualize what the city was like before the earthquake.
The lesson that I took from Beit Shean is that we can be living in prosperity and thinking we are leading a fine Christian life in our fine Christian community and then it can all come to a stop in a single day. We don’t know what our life tomorrow will be like, so we need to live wholeheartedly for the Lord today. Go where He calls you to go and do what He tells you to do. Don’t hold back, because tomorrow may be too late.
We dragged our sweat soaked bodies into the air conditioned bus and drove along the Israeli-Jordanian border (the west bank of the Jordan River) on the way to Jerusalem. This was the route usually followed by Jews in going from Galilee to Jerusalem. As we moved south, parallel along the Jordan River, the landscape went from fairly lush farmland and citrus orchards to barren moonscape-like desert. There were large areas with no evidence of any living plant – just bone dry dirt and hot rocks. Can you imagine Jesus and others walking through such areas in the blazing heat? It is amazing that Jesus had any energy left for ministry.
We saw in the distance (it is an area controlled by the military and now somewhat dangerous) the area of the Jordan where John the Baptist baptized Jesus. Again, only the area along the river had any green. After Jesus was baptized, he went away into the wilderness, and it was apparently the barren moonscape type of wilderness. There would have been nothing physical to distract Jesus from preparing for the mission before Him.
As we drove south, we saw the modern city of Jericho to the right – a city controlled by the Palestinians as Palestinian territory. We could also see the proximity of Jericho to the Jordan River and the area where Joshua and the people of Israel must have crossed the river and then set up camp before marching around the ancient city of Jericho.
As we are driving, we are climbing. Galilee is the lowest fresh water lake in the world. Jerusalem is 3000 feet above sea level. So, we must go from hundreds of feet below sea level to 3000 feet above sea level. Again, the highway (like many of the roads in Israel) is essentially built over the top of the ancient roads that were used in Jesus’ time. As we began the ascent to Jerusalem, we were driving through pure moonscape – there was no living plant to be seen. This was the road on which bandits used to hide and attack travelers.
We passed an archeological site identified as an ancient inn. Apparently, this was an inn like that referred to by Jesus when he told the story of the good Samaritan who bandaged the Jew who had been injured by bandits on this same road. Thus, the story came more to life.
Before getting to Jerusalem, I need to mention something that is very obvious to everyone in Israel. There are mosques everywhere in Israel and Israel does not prevent the Muslims from worshipping. There are many Muslims/Palestinians who are Israeli citizens. Thus, Arabic Muslims and Israeli Jews worked side by side at just about every establishment that we visited. Our bus driver is an Israeli Muslim from a Palestinian/Arabic background (as are most of the tour drivers). Most of the kitchen help and hotel help falls in this category. The tour guides are Jewish Israelis who work very closely with the Muslim Israelis. Thus, there is no apparent conflict between these people. The conflict is with the non-Israeli Muslims who would like to take back “Palestine.”
We also learned that the word, “Palestine,” comes from the mispronunciation of the word, “Philistine,” by the Romans, who refused to call this Israel.
Getting back to the trip to Jerusalem -- after climbing steep roads, we came around a bend in the moonscape and suddenly there was the old city and the Dome of the Rock mosque. It was stunning. We drove to a look out point above the Hebrew University of Jerusalem and took photos looking down on the old city. We then had a great time of prayer and worship, reflecting on what God had done for us in this city.
Jerusalem is huge and it is a series of hills and valleys – there is very little flat ground – kind of like the hilly parts of San Francisco. The temperature here is much more temperate, because of the altitude. There was a cooling breeze – quite a contrast to what we have been experiencing. We ate lunch at a Kibbutz and then checked into the hotel. The hotel has a nice view and looks impressive, but it is really just another tourist trap. Nothing is as nice or as clean as it first appears. We had to cross a sewage leak in order to reach our hotel room. However, the room is comfortable and there is a nice pool.
We have dinner at 8 p.m. and then will have an early start to a busy day. We will see the Garden of Gethsemane, the Garden tomb and the stations of the cross from Jesus’ trek to Golgatha. Mark Driscoll will teach us at Gethsemane in the afternoon. On Tuesday, we will head to Bethlehem, in the Palestinian territories. We have been encouraged to buy souvenirs in Bethlehem in order to support the harassed Christian minority there. Our guides cannot come to Bethlehem with us because they are Jewish and are therefore banned.
Thank you for praying for us. We look forward to providing more reports. God has been exceedingly faithful to us and we are grateful for His grace. May God bless and keep each of you abounding in His joy.
